Day Eleven : Hot Sulphur Springs, Co - Boulder, CO

I started my day with another visit to a hot spring baths that were walking distance from my hostel, but I ride down because I am now in love with my beautiful bike. The 600meter drive brings me across the Colorado river and a train track still in use. It was pleasent falling asleep the night previous and hearing the train pass, which took 5 minutes due to it's size and speed. 

The sign that greeted me in Hot Sulphur Springs, minutes
after booking the last bed in town.

The baths were absolutely amazing, more so than the ones I'd been in previously that week. I questioned the maintenance and upkeep of the 'spa' as I entered. I wondered how the owners could allow such a pungent smell permeate their premises, I then remembered he name of the town, Hot Sulphur Springs, and figured these natural springs would carry a certain odour which is unavoidable. It smelled like fart, but you get used to it. I spent hours in luxurious outdoor and indoor baths with different minerals and chemicals to relax the muscles and bones of achy biker bodies. Each bath was a different temperature, some temperatures were a challenge in themselves, 112 degrees Fahrenheit, whatever that is in Celsius. 24 baths in total and I was in most but not all of the baths. 



There was one natural spring bath which was fed by a continuous waterfall of steaming hot sulfuric water, it pounded down on your back and neck as you ducked underneath it, mother natures massage. There is a hidden wall to the side of this bath where the lady in the red swim suit is sitting. Behind her is a wall which divides the main bath from a small one-man bath (see below, my arm is resting on the wall she is sitting on above). The water in this separate bath is much darker and less opaque than the main bath, the water is also much hotter and bottom of the back is a thick massaging sand. All the baths were different textures, tiles, plastic, stone, slate etc. You have to climb over the wall and manipulate yourself into a semi-Fowlers position (nurse reference) in order to sit comfortably inside the natural rock formation.

I met some pleasant people here (lady above) who shared with me the joys of Colorado and just their general love for life. There were a number of people nearly all American, most from out of state. It seemed to be a popular spot.

This was another beautiful day of purely casual riding, there was no progress East made today. I covered 110 miles and spent about 10 hours on the road, so many views to take in, photo opportunities and viewing points. I started the day by riding back through Granby and filling up at the station where the attendant had kindly booked my bed for me the night previous. I entered Rocky Mountain National Park for an insignificant fee (for what you were paying for (priceless)) and rode further north over some breathtaking peaks. The roads were dry, the air was cool and fresh but there was almost a constant warmth on my back. When I got to the top I had to get down and bury my face in the snow. This day was riding up and down the mountains in the national park; I ride Peak to Peak highway which completes my day as I near the town of Boulder. There is some amount of traffic around the park as it is a Sunday but I am not focused on that. There continues to be huge posses of bikers on the road. There were also posses of elk which was not something I had planned on seeing or had thought of seeing. I was in it for the terrain, the landscape and the ride but as I keep saying, the elk were a real treat, and I hate to say it but, particularly the males, with their ginormous antlers. 

I finished this day riding from Nederland into Boulder, Colorado where my friend Peter lives. I met him in Zimbabwe in January and met him again in Zanzibar in March, our paths just happened to cross after we had both traveled in opposite circles around southern Africa over the three months. I stayed with him and his mom; we chilled, had some beers and walked around his neighborhood. Peter is under 21 so it was a night of relative sobriety. I got a great night sleep and on declining an offer of a second night in Boulder, I brought Peter for a spin on my Shadow which he really loved. We both went without helmets which is stupid, but a must when your in America and the weather is fine. We rode around Boulder, then went go-karting which was fun but miserable getting from a 750cc bike into a 25cc go-kart. Next stop Kansas.

Change of pace

People always ask what the highlight of a particular trip, and most people will reply, 'But there were so many'. This is true of this vacation but this particular day, and my few days spent in the Rocky Mountains were easily ONE of the highlights of my holiday. I'm not sure if it is all altitude related but it is truly breathtaking. Not I nor anybody else I met who had traveled through these passes could accurately describe the Rockies giving them their due credit. Some would simply say it was indescribable, incomprehensible or that it just left them speechless.

Lessons;
'Go to Elvis's home! He was the last great leader of this country' - Woman in hot baths