Day Three, Four and Five : Phoenix, Arizona - Tucson, Arizona

Hanging out with 'The Dude'

Seen at the veterinary hospital
 beside mechanics workshop in Phoenix

The next day I was at the post office in Phoenix at 11am sending my leather jacket home, it had carbon fibre protection and it weighed a ton but I'd never be able to wear it in that heat. I also sent some tools and clothes. I had to lose weight with my tires burning up in the heat so quickly. I also realized my saddle bags couldn't handle all that weight either, the stitches were starting to come away and had to add support with bungee cords. This worried me and was always at the back of my mind. Soft saddle bags should be mounted at the brackets as well as joined under the rear seat; my saddle bags were not mounted to the brackets. The bags hung freely on their own supports and I quickly realized I had over packed, I had to eat more Brodericks!

I had made phonecalls around Phoenix first thing in the morning and I had arranged to drop my bike in for a new tire. It cost me $245 and I enjoyed a McDonalds breakfast in the interim. I went back, they threw in a free tshirt, told me they were Irish, I picked up the bike and was back on the I10, east bound to Tucson. New tire, brakes checked and air in the front tire (which I had been riding at 20psi (which is very bold for you non-riders)).

My friend Kate, who I was due to visit in Kentucky has a first cousin in Tucson who had already welcomed me to stay with him. I had met his mother Susan at Kate's wedding in Ireland in April and Susan was absolutely lovely so I essentially trusted him already. Kate had told me I would love her cousin Brad, and that I did. When I eventually found his house, I think we were friends after 10 minutes and really close friends after half and hour. By the end of the day we were 'friends for life' as we kept reminding each other. He reminds me instantly of the Dude from the Big Lebowski. He is chilled as a cucumber, very easy going, jolly and cheery.  Brad Michael Free and his wife Heather put me up in their guest house in the back garden of their amazingly funky house. It is bright purple, the garden wall is covered in lights, road signs and lots of little ornaments and trinkets, wire geckos, mosaic tiles, bright colourful bunting and hundreds of fairy lights. The accepted my appreciation for his beautiful home but attributed most of the design to his wife who I'll meet later. The sandy yard is covered in other little ornamental creatures and throughout the yard, blue glass seeds the size of quarters (25 cents (I'll come back to this)). In the corner of the garden is a pond and water feature with big coy fish and gold fish.

Prickly Pear

Brad advised I shower, I had a nap in the AIR CONDITIONED guest house. The heat is not getting any more bearable even with the air con on full blast. We then go out for food (I had lovely hotdog sliders (I love hot dogs)) and beer, followed by beer, finished off with some beer in Whole Foods. We drank Mikeller Black (Sauterne Edition) barrell aged sour stout, 21%. Dead-licious. It was a well rounded meal. Sauternes is a French sweet wine from the Sauternais region in Bordeaux. It is made from Sémillon, Sauvignon blanc, and Muscadelle grapes that have been affected by Botrytis cinerea, also known as noble rot. This causes the grapes to become partially raisined, resulting in concentrated and distinctively flavored wines (and sweet as far as I know). It is in these barrels that contained the wines effected by the botrytis cinerea, that they age this really interesting beer. A fantastic creation if I'm being totally honest. I have struggled to source it since.

As well as his knowledge on beers and brewing, Brad loves Led Zeppelin, his wife and food, but not in that order. Brad introduced me to In 'N' Out burger next. It's a shame I only had it that once with him. Maybe it's a good thing, it is well remembered. He drove me up to the top of Mt. Lemmon where it was much cooler, we enjoyed a beer up there in a bar. As we approached the entrance of the bar a gust of wind blew through the building and ever so gently blew the door open for us. Brad and I nonchalantly thanked the door as a barmaid nearby insisted it was not an electronic door.  We soaked up the natural air conditioning. Many holiday homes, beautiful homes that are utilized for maybe two weeks of the year, ski-mobiles covered up for the summer, stacks of wood covered in tarp.

Brad and I hit the city of Tucson that evening which of the little I saw was pretty nice. It's not my biggest interest but the graffiti was really appealing. Later that night we met up with with Brad's wife and we enjoy a performance from a great band called 'Tortolita Gutpluckers' in a great bar. Banjo, voice, guitar, and one guy playing the broomstick (with string attached to a bucket. Broomstick bass?). The bar, Borderlands Brewing Company, appeared to be converted from an old warehouse and was covered with vibrant indian art for sale by local artists. The surrounding area of the bar was a little bit industrious but plastered with more of this fantastic graffiti. We had some more beautiful craft beers and then went to their friends house for midnight swimming, hot-tub and sunrise. Coincidentally, also clothing optional. At this stage I'm just thinking it's a desert thing.

We ate well, I should have insisted that Brad cook something one of the evenings while I was there as he is apparently a very talented chef and from the photos I've seen, he is. I was still getting my fix of American bar food so I was happy, all things golden, crispy, breaded or covered in sauce. Yummy. Hooters was a real treat, they do good beer, really good wings, thighs, legs, ass and tits. Brad has since enrolled in a culinary arts course.

I faced a tough 1,000 mile ride through Texas purely to see New Orleans and was not really looking forward to it having already done about 800 miles of desert already. With Brad, I decided I would be better heading north and seeing the Rockies, I would also get to ride through Albuquerque and see Walter Whites house, I don't know why but this was the second time this suggestion had come up but Pradeep also mentioned changing my route and going to Albuquerque. I'm not a huge tv buff but I must have mentioned Breaking Bad once or twice around Brad. I'd also get to see the old gold rush ghost towns of America. It all made sense, I had to iron out a few other peculiarities and consider what else I'd miss along the way by changing my route. But it was the best decision I could have made. I remember high-fiving Brad, probably hugging him for helping me decide I was going to the Rockies next. In fairness we were both intoxicated...

Heisenbrick??...

Changing my route greatly exacerbated my sense of freedom which I'm beginning to learn is one of the greatest feelings you can experience in life.  I was so excited about the route change. I was adding a 1000 miles to my total journey as I was heading directly north instead of east. I was adding to the challenge but was feeling more optimistic about it. I also knew if I wanted to see Tennessee I would have to head south again but I had given myself buffer days which allowed enough time to get to the East coast. One night became two, became three and I then had to say goodbye to my new friend.

Bradam

Brad and I shared great moments, those laughter-bursting moments, moments of coincidental telepathy, stories told of things honest and heartfelt, movie quotes, sing-a-longs. Brad is a gentleman of great thought and consideration and above all, he is absolutely hilarious, The Dude of Tucson.

Lessons;

I learned that just before sunrise the spectrum of light that is absorbed by your eyes (dark shades of blue and black), stimulate the brain to stop producing melatonin. The shade of blue you see is a shorter wave-length and is said to counter-effect depression and uplift mood. Seratonin is also the chemical that is produced which aids use with sleep so when this is diminished I guess we are awakened (did someone say second wind?).

Brad and Heather's friend Kate continuously used the expression, 'I OWN VACATION' and it seemed something she was proud of. I didn't quite understand what she meant but by the time I hit Philadelphia I knew what it meant and I was saying it, 'I OWN VACATION'.